No problem...

I'll be making a final head count soon to see what's what and then contact everybody for an update...not long now...so,on the first night in Spain I will surely allow you to buy me a pint!!!

:)







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Swing arm Bearing
 

If you haven't got a centre stand what's the best way to support the bike- the abba stand hooks into the swing arm so obviously isn't any use!

Just had a look and if you move the rear brake and side stand there's a handy tube runs right under the engine, sure I can weld something to the abba stand to hold the bike through there.

Put sump on an old milk or beer crate with a bit of wood to make up what height you need it..or you can buy a moto stand that levers up for about �30 or thereabouts.

:)


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OK, so I have a big squeak whenever I get on or off the bike.
In fact, when it's on the sidestand, I can press down on it with 2 fingers and make it squeak.

Up to 12300 miles now, time to do this I think!
(Since the dealer didn't on my 12,000 mile service)

Are there any parts I should replace indefinitely? Dust seals perhaps?

I don't want to take it apart and find I have to wait for bits to arrive in the post!

[QUOTE=WeaveMcQuilt;193766]OK, so I have a big squeak whenever I get on or off the bike.
QUOTE]


You're not wearing Sidi boots are you?!?!? :smilielol:

If it hasn't been stripped, then it is definitely worth doing now. Do the swingarm pivots too while your at it - if you wait till 30K miles (as in the service schedule) it will almost definitely be siezed and a complete ar5e to get out.

Always worth having a set of dust seals in hand, because they are quite easily damaged during removal.

Is that covered in this guide?
I'll be following this guide to the letter..

Yes.

Link fixed http://www.4shared.com/download/LYKo...suspension.pdf

HI there,

I am fitting a new rear shock absorber on my Ten and as part of the operation I am checking and re-greasing the bearing on the linkage and swingarm.

The problem is that I am having trouble when trying to take out this guy:

http://i13.tinypic.com/6okw7fb.jpg

The swingarm is still on and to take it out, this bolt must be unscrewed. Following the Haynes manual, it says that a 15mm hex key or some sort of hand made key out of a 15mm bolt and a screw.

I obviously don't have a such a big hex key (only the 14mm for the front spindle). How do you guys take out the swingarm? Do I need to buy this tool? Seems like it is not a cheap one plus I don't think I will use anywhere else.

Can this bolt be unscrewed with the swingarm on from "inside"between the frame and the swingarm end?

Thanks!

Use the Haynes method if you can't be bothered to buy a 15mm key - works a treat...

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa1baee63.jpg

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6ae51b44.jpg

What may have to do (as bolts with a 15mm head have rounded corners and won't fit well enough) is take a slightly larger bolt, such as an 9/16 AF and flat the sides with wet and dry paper to get nice sharp corners. This is what I did (the above is a 9/16 AF bolt).

In my experience it's just too tight and inaccessible to get at from inside.

Thanks Pleiades. Finally went for this option, but with a different piece of hardware I found in a plumbing shop. I think it is a piece to join gas pipes :tool:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/34/m3cz.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/842/tsqh.jpg

Cheers

Quick update on removing the MPL cage from the needle roller bearings...

The swingarm bearings, that I stripped of MPL and replaced with grease 13K miles ago, were in perfect condition, no play and everything, including the inner bushes was still well packed with grease (unlike the first time I stripped them). So no problems whatsoever to report with the MPL-free uncaged needle rollers and the waterproof marine grease seems to have done the trick too.

This time I have also removed the MPL cage from the linkage to frame bearing as I am satisfied that "proper" grease and no cage does a better job.

Swing arm bearings
 

Well I've had the swing arm off today.
2012 bike with 7300 miles on the clock and the rear seems to be pretty solid on my usual commute with very little movement in it.
I've previously done all the linkage bearings which were very sparsely grease.
Got the bike apart easily and the right hand bearing was moving but had very little grease in it. The left hand bearing however ( the sprocket side of the swing arm) was solid. The inner bearing race was stuck and had to be tapped out with a hammer. Once I got it out the problem wasn't the needle bearing but the plastic bush which was dry and gummed up and gripping the inner race. After removing and cleaning it and then cleaning and greasing the main pivot bolt the suspension seem much better ( it moves up and down now!)

So I've now had the front end off with dry bearings in the steering head, 2 sets of Cush drives in it and now dry bearings on the rear.
Honestly never had a bike so badly put together which is a real shame............

I can't remember but I think I might have put a smidgen of grease on my plastic bushing before re mounting....

As most riders here I too found my head bearings with only a smidgen of grease. I got them just in time.

Over the next few weeks I'll be tapping a grease nipple into the headstock whereupon I'll be able to fill same up with grease and give it a few pumps on a fortnightly basis to remove any crud/moisture.

:)


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grease your nipples
 

grease nipples are a good idea provided you dont over grease.
we have several fan bearings seize up after the apprentices over greased them to the point where the grease had heated up, degraded into a thick sludge and then destroyed the bearings and knackered the motor. Not applicable to your head stock but you know what I mean........
they used to fit them to the rear linkages etc

How do u thoroughly clean the bearings without removing the silicon

You can't! ;)

The only way to clean the bearings thoroughly is remove the MPL.

So they are really a sealed unit and aren't meant to be cleaned? Just re-greased

In a nutshell - yes. Any solvent or cleaning agent that's going to do an effective job will just dissolve the MPL. It disintegrates very easily.

The reason for my query is the above post. If the silicon is still there after 50000 then it lasts a lot longer than if I were to replace it with grease?

How about cleaning with grease or would that be a solvent to

How to grease rear suspension & swing arm(part4)
 

MPL shouldn't really be viewed as a cage. It's sole purpose is to bleed oil onto the rollers. The MPL may will still be there after 50k miles, but it will have long since given up all it's suspended oils. It won't be lubricating anything. This is why Yamaha say re-grease at intervals.

The trouble is because of the MPL you can't get any grease in there!

Grease itself won't clean the bearing as it's sticky by nature; they really need washing out with something, flushing out the dirt and grit.

On the other matter of needle spacing, MPL bearings have tightly packed needles, there is no space, they all meet at tangents. Unlike a steel cage needle roller bearing does have space and would indeed give rise to problems should the cage be removed.

Grease nipples are indeed what i am preparing on mine, as soon as the new shock is in place. (Getting a bit higher so best to wait until then to determine the exact place to drill the holes)
What you need to realise is that, when you have grease nipples, is that you have to turn the seals around! The way they are fitted originally is so that the grease that is inside cannot come out (while spray water could get inside if sprayed violently)
Turning them the other way around will not allow dirt to get inside anymore, while exessive grease will be pushed out. The problem with over-greasing is solved with that.

:)

I wouldn't worry too much about the soft bearing stuff at all...the plastic thingy is a weird deviation form my usual dirt motos....

I have had no ill effects from my bearings since...

:)


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Hi

The zip tys are there in case a spoke snaps (usually with a large impact)...the zip ty will stop it flailing about and getting caught in a disc or sprocket....the front spokes have them also.


The dog bones do have adjustment..I have mine at the highest saddle setting. The front end,for me,is more planted when riding the fast twisties here.


:)



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No problem..if you have a wee peep at my threads ref. prepping for travelling etc you'll see a few more tips and tricks.

All the best

:)




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Hi Kev,

The download link is invalid how can I download it? Could it be because I'm on iPad?

Thanks

Andrew

Thanks for this great tutorial, even I could follow. Please do one for fork service, seal and oil replacement.
I have the manual but can't follow it.
One other thing I'm curious about the top bolt of the shock. Does that not have a bearing?

No. Just a bush on the top mount (which can get a bit squeaky).

Does anyone know what the dust seal sizes are?

Thanks
 

Thanks for the how to write up. Armed with all four parts of the write up I stripped cleaned and reassembled everything in under four hours. I'm pretty sure my My 2009 bike with close to 18000km had never been done before, but in fact it was all in pretty good shape. But nice to know it's all cleaned and lubed and good for another couple of years.

I've just been following this for the last day or two.
Now, I'm no mechanic, but i have tools, a Haynes manual and an Android tablet with this page open so off I go!

Started with steering head bearings:
Handlebars off, forks off, clamps off, top yoke, bottom yoke and steering stem out.

Bearings looked in pretty good nick for 30,000 miles but the races were a little bit pitted. Will get them replaced under warranty in March.

Washed out the bearings and dryed them with a hair dryer, then packed them with marine bearing grease.

Put it all back together with a big squeeze on the lock nut and then release and a little nip up. Side to side movement is nice and smooth and no hard spots. Just right.

While I was at it, I cleaned up my front caliper and disc. New rubber grease on the sliders since one pad was wearing more than the other.

Moved on to Swingarm and Pivot points:

Followed this guide to the letter. It was all a bit daunting at first, it's cold and i immediately snapped one of the plastic pins that holds the rear shock flap in place.

But it started to make sense and became a fun challenge if you've never done it before!

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Image00015.jpg

Again, everything looked ok. The swingarm axle was in pretty good nick but I still rubbed it down with steel wool and greased it up.
The bearing cages came out and are now replaced with proper grease. Lost one of the pins at one point but found it with a headtorch!

In the pivot knuckle, there are 48 pins in total, that's 24 each side.

What this guide doesn't mention is the best time to re-fit the bottom chain roller.
Do this before you re-attach the swingarm. Trust me! It's a pig if you leave it til last!

Gave the whole bottom part of the engine a bloody good clean down with petrol, cleaned up the shock, around the front sprocket, anywhere i could now reach with nothing on the back.

While cleaning around the front sprocket, I noticed this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Image00014.jpg

Ordered a new set and they arrived today!

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Image00016.jpg

Guess what I'm doing tomorrow!!

Thank you Ohlins for a perfect walkthrough for idiots like me.
Cheers!

Yeah Weave, it's a bit of aproblem as you cannot see the sprocket with the cover in place. The next time I gat at my bike I'm gonna drill a 25mm hole in the cover so that I can see the sprocket condition.
Good job you checked.

Steve

That's why I just bought one of these too:

http://www.altechdesigns.co.uk/49-th...cket-cover.jpg

From aliwakeskake here on XT660.com

His website is: AltecH Designs

Glad you got it all done..see....wasn't so bad after all?


:)


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Hi Ohlins , Pleiades just put me onto your guide for stripping and greasing the swing arm , shock mounts etc......great stuff , thanks for that. Makes it do able even for me! Steve

You're welcome Sir.

:)





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This thread is great thanks heaps :grouphug5:

No problem

:)



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