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Thanks for your feedback the stage 3 will supply max air flow for any mod out there, stick to the guide links in the tunning instructions & you will be fine as they were all checked on the Dyno with all the different mods fitted, your bike will not run to rich with my fuel mod.
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Hi All.
Still really green regards site at present so forgive the inevitable stupid questions. I have just bought the LV exhausts and want to fit them and other mods I am yet to buy for my 2009 XT660Z at the same time. I want the Kev Mod and the O2 controller but where can I buy them at the same time ? I also want the DNA side filter but seems theres conflicting info as to whether I can get them from this site or not. Any info would be great as I want to get my low down torque improved ! Regards All |
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The DNA filters you can get from DNA direct: http://www.e-dnafilters.com/Product.asp?ID=810 http://www.e-dnafilters.com/Product.asp?ID=824 Or BR Special Tuning in the UK: http://www.motorcycle-exhausts.co.uk..._submit=Search |
All The Bits Bought !
Job done - just bought the Kev Mod and O2 controller from Kev via e-bay and the DNA stage 2/3 from BK racing parts.
Thanks for the assistance - this is one excellent site. Will of course contribute as and when I can. |
Hi,
I ordered my first mod for my 2012 XT660ZA, the o2 controller on e-bay. My bike is completely orginal, and will tell what it will do when mounted. |
Thanks mate it will make your ride much smoother, I have just packed up your mod ready for posting on Monday morning.
Just remember guys you can get them cheaper by buying them directly from me via pm, so you don't have to pay EBay their fees I pass the discount of the fees directly back to you. |
Thanks for the info, when the o2 mod worksout well, i probably wil also order the fuelmod. Although i have to find out where to put it between all the abs stuff...
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To anyone that is debating whether to get the O2 controller, take it from me it is money well spent. First ride after fitting was a dream, it really is like riding a different bike in traffic, no struggling in the low revs and it pulls cleanly all the way through.
Cheers kev for the time and effort that you and others have put into these Mods :clap: |
Thanks for your feedback Paul, another happy camper.:icon_thumleft:
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After a few months running
I also have to add to this, the O2 tuner smooths out the lower end of the rev range, and ads a little MPG into the bargain.
So far, I've put in Stage 1 & 2 DNA, PC-V, MTC single can and the O2 tuner - the bike is nothing like a standard bike, it pulls better at higher revs, lower revs and is much smoother. Smoother to the point that dragging the rear brake at slow speeds to control the bike isn't necessary much of the time - thanks to the O2 Thingamyjiggy. Installation is minutes, three including the time it takes to get your tools out. I'd recommend it as a fit, to any Tenere. :111: |
Kev Mod and O2 Controller Arrived.
My Kev Mod and O2 controller has arrived - 5 days from Oz to UK. Amazing ! Will be fitting over the next few days and will report back the experience. I already bought and fitted the stage 3 side filter and DNA stock filter and replacement but didnt order the snorkel cover mod. Cant ride without it so am ordering from BK today.
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Just like to add my thumbs up. To anyone that is debating whether to get the O2 controller, take it from me it is money well spent. First ride after fitting was a dream, it really is like riding a different bike in traffic, no struggling in the low revs and it pulls cleanly all the way through.
Thanks Kev for the time and effort that you and others have put into these mods. Cheers Glenn |
Thanks for your feedback Glenn glad you are happy with the results.:blob5:
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After fitting the O2 controller back at the end of February, I initially suspected that the fuel consumption had improved somewhat. It was difficult to assess exactly though as I hadn't been through enough tanks of petrol. Now we're six months down the line I've got a better picture of just how much more economical it is.
Before I was averaging 57mpg (5L/100Km). During the last six moths I've been averaging just over 60mpg (4.7L/100Km). The Fuelly consumption graph makes the difference plain to see... http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbb8810fb.jpg The O2 controller obviously makes the closed loop fuelling more rich than stock, which you'd think would mean less mpg. However, the fact you can use higher gears at lower revs, together with the motor being more efficient and silkier on/off the throttle, means you can ride much more smoothly, hence the improved mpg. Well that's what I reckon anyway! Note: The big double spike in mpg in May (for those that are interested) corresponds to the journey to and from the Lakes Meet. The weather was so sh1t, cold, wet and windy I rode up there and back like a big girl's blouse! :gay: |
Nice report, the O2 controller does give the motor more torque due to the corrected A/f ratio from 14.7:1 to 13.6:1, more torque does mean you will need to roll the throttle off to maintain the same MPH speed. At 14.7:1 the motor is not fuel efficient at all what it means you are getting a complete hydrocarbon burn off at 14.7:1 to please the Greene's.
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Probably slightly more involved to install than I was expecting, nothing difficult mind you, but did require in my case, removing the fuel tank to get access the air box temperature sensor wiring.
I had really hoped to avoid this on my XT660Z, as I was already quite busy and "time poor" preparing the bike for a five day, 1750 Kilometer ride, through the New England Region of Northern NSW....mainly on dirt The O2 eliminator installation, was exactly as described.. "plug & play", only requiring a few cable ties to attach the black box to the rear of the fan. The fuel mod wires were scarfed into the temp sensor wiring, soft soldered and heat shrinked. I then tested the effect of the fuel mod with the Yamaha FI Diagnostic Tool and all appeared to be working OK. Set the dial to the 1700 position (5 O'Clock), and sat it just under the tank using velcro, where it would be easily accessible for adjustment if required. Was too busy to even take the bike for a test ride at this stage, as I was also fitting a DNA air box mod and pannier racks, brake pads etc etc. Headed off at 0600 on Fathers Day morning, and soon had to negotiate my first round-a-bout, which is less than 250 meters from my house. The bike managed it easily, with no need to slip the clutch etc, something I am usually quite prepared for at round-a-bouts!!!. Apart from that, I didn't notice a great deal of difference during the 1 hour transport to the meeting location, as it was mostly open roads with virtually no traffic, possibly due to the fact that it was a Sunday, and my mind was also busily preparing for the trek ahead. Met up with the rest of our group, and we were soon on dirt roads and into the more technical style of Adventure Riding. The first thing I did notice on dirt, was that the bike was now far more "tractable", I was no longer chasing gears, and by crikey, the bike was actually pulling from 2000RPM... even in third gear...!!!!! NICE......REALLY NICE...Any plans to play with the fuel mod were soon abandoned, as the bike was now a pleasure to ride, just as it was. I no longer had problems finding a gear and speed to handle any situation, not once did I have to go looking for gears or get caught in a gear that saw me riding too fast for the conditions and having to change down, only to have the engine revving its ring out. For the next five days we rode between 8 and 9 hours a day, on fast free flowing dirt roads in wide open country, to forest fire trails and singletrack through rain forests and slow, rock stewn mountain climbs, that literally shredded rear tyres.... and actually, I lost count of the number of deep stream crossings which the bike handled with aplomb. The Tenere conducted itself flawlessly throughout the trip, and I can say in all honesty, the bike now performs as I always hoped it would..... If you prefer off road riding...I can highly recommend Kev's O2 and fuel mod, along with Ohlins springs and T-Valves in the front end...SIMPLY BRILLIANT.!! BTW...I didn't bother with before and after fuel figures...I was enjoying the ride too much to care..!!! |
Importing into EU (Denmark)
The O2 controller seems to be in the need2have category :-)
If anyone within EU are buying in the near future I would like to tag along. The cost of handling imports directly to Denmark are close to robbery :-( The VAT and import custom are one thing but the fees are another story. So if someone within another EU country are willing to forward one to me i would appreciate it. I suggest paying Kev directly and then the kind soul for the import/forwarding cost. PM me if interested. |
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And I need to document that the value is that low and if a gift that i have personal relations... The danish tax authorites now all the tricks and charges ~30USD in fee (on top of VAT etc) That is the reason to go trough another EU country that are not that strict (or keep the value down below ~15USD - but that won't work when they can see that just the postage cost is close to that) |
All up to you mate.
The Oz $ value for your country that has worked for the past few year has been $20.00 with no duty, I just looked at my records & I have posted to your country 12 times this year with no reported duties been paid, for other countries I put $25.00. |
Yesteday i got hold of a FI diagnostic tool (secondhand at a good price :-) )
My throttle is between 17% closed and 98% fully open. Which is ok values according to the service manual. How does the ECU determine the 20% to switch between closed and open loop ? |
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via voltage, the ECU can't read % it reads voltages, it displays % as a reference. In long: There are quite a few tables in the ECU but the 4 main mapping tables are: F fuel tables via TPS/RPM inputs = open loop L fuel tables via intake air pressure/RPM inputs= open loop O2 sensor voltage inputs = closed loop. Closed loop is turned off/on via F/Ltrims/RPM/coolant temp Ignition tables The F/L switch point tables are preprogramed by Yamaha, the reason they use pressure as well as the TPS is so the ECU can determine engine load after the throttle plate & alter the pulse modulated width signal of the injector as the pressure changes even though we may not have changed the throttle position the ECU constantly adjusts the A/F ratio. The ECU can switch at any time between the F/L trims according to air intake pressure or throttle position. The reason I am mentioning the above is there are many variables that can change the way the ECU used the mapping which affect the switch points in the ECU from open to closed loops. I could go on for hours about mapping so I will end off here. |
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I had just hoped that there was a simple way to tell when when the motorcycle is running in closed loop based on rpm and gas handle - but makes sense that the other sensors are also used. Actually I also wonder why the O2 sensor is only used at low rpm / throttle. Thought that it would also be an advantage to use it as an input at higher loads instead of fixed tables. Then it really makes sense that many people fit power commanders to "adjust" the tables. The right solution I guess would be to have an ECU that always was running in a closed loop with feedback from O2, temp and preassure sensors. Maybe it is just not that simple to keep the Air/fuel mixture right under changing loads. My only experience is with O2 sensors on wood-pellet burners where the load changes very slowly :-) Well I still have a lot to learn with my first real modern motorcycle. The most powerful processing power on my super tenere was probably the McCoi chain oiler :-) I also think that is to bad that the instrument don't show more of the sensors values like intake air temperature and coolant temperature. |
The closed loop is running at freeway speeds the XT's ECU looks at the intake map pressure/rpm & decides that you are cruising & leans the A/F ratio out to 14.7:1. The narrow band O2 sensors on the XT & most of the other manufactures are just not good enough to adjust all the time they only can work in a very narrow field, you would need a wide band O2 sensor to adjust the A/F ratio if you want the A/F ratio adjusted & trimmed all the time.
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Installed the fuel and o2 mods last week. Made the bike some much better to ride. Thanks Kev.
DNA filters going on this week. |
Thanks for your feedback.
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The O2 and fuel mod arrived just before the weekend - I'm still amazed how fast parcels get around the globe - as long as they don't get stuck in customs.
The O2 was just plug'n'play in less than 15minutes including finding the tools, considering where to place it and taking some photo's :-) Btw I fitted the O2 controller behind the ECU The Fuel mod on the other hand was not that easy. It is perfectly straight forward if you are an gynecologist but on my pony the wiring for the temperature sensor is so short that i can only reach it with the tip of two fingers. So I did not dare cut it since i was not sure that i would be able to splice in the fuel mod. Actually I was not even without issues just getting the top of the air filter. It had to be wrestled out between the abs brake tubes and the wiring. I got the connector of the temperatur sensor but could not work on it. Actually the wiring is so tight i can't even get the sensor out of the airbox before it is disconnected. I've been working 20 hours this weekend on out local bmx track so haven't had a chance to ride it yest with the O2 mod. The fuel mod will have to wait until winter and then I'll remove the tank to get room to work. PS anyone know if it will be possible to obtain a connector similar to the temperature sensor so one could make a plug-in cable instead of cutting the wire ? |
I found the easiest way to get at the AIT sensor wiring, without having to remove the tank, yet still have room to work was to feed the sensor through to the right-hand side of the bike. Once you've got it through (just behind the thermostat) there is plenty of space to cut, solder, heatshrink or use the terminal block supplied.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9ae250df.jpg Mind you, not so sure about the ABS bike though, never actually seen the plumbing in the flesh - there must be a sh!t load of pipework to get in the way running from the pump/manifold, under the tank and to the front of the bike? Anyhow, a good opportunity to test the effects of the O2 controller on its own merits for now... |
Or join it at the ECU end.
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Under seat of the pony
http://majland.org/temp/2013.09.29_x...t_img_0455.jpg The very short cable for the temperature sensor http://majland.org/temp/2013.09.29_x..._airsensor.jpg I was actually looking at getting the cable back and out to a side, but couldn't figure out a way - Probably just need better lighting. Did not take the bike onto the workbench but just stayed in the garage... I'll ride with the O2 for now, and have a look when it get winter (I don't have insurance for the 3 winter months, so will not be commuting on it then - plenty of time to get to now the inners of the new ride. ) I have not adjusted the co either ... |
Fitted a mysterious black box to my bike today ... it was dark already, ended up zip tied to the radiator hose ... not a good place me thinks
Anyway with some nice brothel illumination on, off I went for a ride. It works... bike is smoother and less of a donkey when you shut the throttle. Weirdly first thing I noticed was different sound when opened up from low revs. Chugga chugga happens now a good 400rpm lower throughout the gears. It pulls from 2000rpm in third instead of trying to throw the rider out of the saddle. Looks like my 14t sprocket will collect dust for some more time. thanks Kev .. sweet mod |
Thanks for the feedback, you got all the areas covered, smoother ride, can ride at lower RPMs & the bike should pull better from the lower rev ranges, you should have better on/off/on throttle control.
Try doing my twist grip mod as well this will allow for great throttle precision in the tight stuff. |
Snap I also attached mine to the hose as I was thinking of excessive vibes from the fan mounting position. It also pushes the cables down towards the exhaust.
So does it work? Yes. Bike is a little better all round. Bit smoother in lower reaches of the rev range. Just seems to fuel better. Sometimes the stock bike feels like (and does) stall in low gears if revs are too low ie trying to pull away in second by mistake. For some reason it also seems to be smoother when cruising into work at 75 mph. I was worried about fuel consumption but first tank returned 65 mpg. So all good (have to now admit I bought it secondhand on this forum) . |
Nice results John thanks for sharing. Can you put strip of foam or rubber insulation between the mod & the hose just to keep the plastic box off the hose not to sure how the LED will take that heat.
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With the O2 controller you benefit from the longer legs of the 15T, yet get the same ability to pull smoothly from low speeds that you'd get on a stock-fuelled bike with a 14T. Best of both worlds! :023: |
Found a side affect tonight coming back home from visiting my sister. Tank was low & Mrs on the back. Filtered up between cars and waited for lights to change. Lights orange and car to left guns it so I do the same - and pull a massive wheelie away from the light scaring my wife half to death! :)
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That's funny.
Just wanted to ask you guys would you prefer a green LED or stay with the red or remove the LED totally like Dynojet have done on their O2 Optimizer? Only problem with removing the LED is it is part of a diagnostic's for the O2 controller. KTM forum wants a Green LED. |
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All smiles - Kev's O2 Controller on the T�n�r�
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I'm also surprised the KTM lot don't want orange LEDs. I thought they liked everything orange, right down to the wife's lingerie! ;) |
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