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Tank removal / rad
Hi
On a thread some where one put a bullet point list on how to remove the fuel tank...any one know where that is? Is there a search function on this site? i must say i find this forum really hard to navigate :( just taking the Rad off and i need to disconnect the fan plug...but i cant. The manual says to remove tank, i guess this is so you can grab the connector from the top??? does it just pull apart, because mine is solid! Cheers |
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I think I remember the post you're looking for? Anyway, a long while back someone did a breakdown with pictures for removing the tank, which I took the liberty of copying to a PDF (because I knew I'd never be able to find it when I needed it!)
Anyway, I've attached said file. I take no credit whatsoever for it - wish I could remember who posted it?? |
Full credit should go to Old Git Ray! :clap:
Found the original thread... http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=8876 |
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If you want to search for things that are 4 letters or less, put then inside quotes thus -> "log" if you want to search for something with log in it. Or, if you want to search for a string with spaces in it -> "Help me" would search for any post with the string 'Help Me' |
Rather than Ray's method of propping the rear of the tank up and trying to disconnect/connect everything, I find it's much easier to just take the handlebars out of the clamps and strap them out of the way alongside the headlight (there's just about enough slack in the cables/wires. With the bars out of the way you can just flip the tank up onto it's back end, and it's much easier to get at all the connections.
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its no good taking the rad off mate to loose weight.:rofl[1]:
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Taking the tank off is easy: Bars off first (as Uber suggest, tie wrap these out of the way - I use the top bar around the clocks) Remove seat Remove rear retaining plate Remove screen, front indicator panels and tank side panels Remove the two plastic parts the side panels screw to - important to get the tank to lift!! Remove the two main tank mount bolts Remove overflow pipe from left lower side Lift rear of tank and pull back slightly Unclip two electrical connectors (push tab in and pull apart) Remove fuel connector security clip Undo fuel pipe (push tab and pull apart Prepare area to place tank with protection Remove tank and place right way up on a flat surface. You do need to re route the cables and check the throttle returns on both full locks. Adjust cables free play as necessary. Fitting is the reverse of removal as they say. |
hi
Managed to get the rad out without taking the take off...i realised that if i take the plastic brackets off that bolt to the under side of the tank...you can slide the rad up and out. cleaned it all up and was fitting it when my eye glanced the filler cap...i thought "ive still got to take the sodding tank of till fill it up!!". Thought i had got away with out having to take it off :088: so took it off as per instruction from you helpful bunch..thanks!Getting the fuel connections undo is a ******, ive sliced my hand doing it. I think Uberthumper is right....taking the bars off and tipping the tank from the front rather than the back would be easier. Forgot to buy an new coolant drain plug washer though.....i was only in my dealer yesterday :( Gas_Up_Lets_Go - cant believe i never saw that search button :120:. whoops, thanks for the info though. Mort - im addicted now to trying to make the dam thing lighter, was just stood there for ages earlier starring at it...thinking "what can go?!" :) |
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Whatever you want to do, someone will have done it before and will have like learnt the lessons already. |
Phil when you had the rad out you should of removed that air thing pipe and blanked it.:team[1]:
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DUMB QUESTION ALERT: once you fill a rad and expansion bottle with coolant you normally start the bike and run it for a bit to get any trapped air out...then normally top it up (which in my experience is normally just a little bit). But on the Ten you have to take the take off to top it up?!?! |
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I think if you got the rad full and sum in the expansion tank run it up switch off and re start unless there's any bleed nipple.Yes you have to fit a blanker plate to the head,or cut he pipe off the flange braze or weld over hole.
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i removed the AIS off my Fazer, apart from tapping the ports that feed the cylinder heads it was easy. heres the blanking plate for the Tenere http://www.off-the-road.de/XT-660-Z-...it-XT-660.html |
You can just block it at the header. I'll probably do that soon. At the moment I've just plugged it at the airbox end and left everything else in place.
The bit I'm not entirely sure about is that, having plugged it, whether you can entirely remove the system, or whether you might have to leave just the servo in place to avoid an error message - the same way that seems to happen with exhaust valves on sportsbikes. I'll let you know when I try it. The O2 sensor is an entirely different thing. |
I am going to take mine off all together,but to cold in the garage just like the elephant rally.Been running my bike for about 4 months with the valve disconnected.this opens the valve so you have to plug the pipe to the air box.No error codes.:team[1]:
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now then...........you are right, if i need to top the rad up (after running it to get rid of any trapped air) i can use an "enema funnel pipe". BUT....i cant actually SEE inside the rad, so if the level has dropped due to trapped air....how do i know??? :) i reckon if i rock the tank back a bit (lift it up at the handle bar end) it should be enough to be able to peek into the rad. The Tenere is the most awkward bike ive ever worked on :angry5: |
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