Reg/rec Replacment
 

After reading Phils tale on here of many other riders getting caught out with the reg/rec failing i decided to replace mine before this happens ,with the block connector being the weak link i decided to wire it directly into the loom
CHECK THE VOLTAGE WITH THE ORIGINAL REG FIRST,AROUND 14.3 FOR THE ORIGINAL REG
CUT THE WIRES FROM THE REPLACMENT REG (FAZER 600 ) AND REAM OUT THE HOLES TO FIT THE XT BRACKET
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0041-7.jpg
REMOVE THE WIRES ON THE ORIGINAL UNIT AND CUT OF THE CONNECTOR BLOCK LEAVING A LITTLE WIRE TO REUSE THE BLOCK AS A SPARE
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0044-4.jpg
SLIDE SOME HEAT SHRINK ONTO THE WIRE BEFORE SOLDERING (OBVIOUSLY)
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0047-4.jpg
SOLDER THE WIRES ONTO THE LOOM ,RED TO RED BLACK TO BLACK AND A WHITE TO A WHITE FOR EACH
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0049-3.jpg
WHEN YOUR HAPPY WITH THE CONNECTIONS HEAT THE HEAT SHRINK ON , THEN TEST WITH A METER TO CHECK WITH THE BIKE RUNNING YOU ARE GETTING 14 PLUS VOLTS (MINES 14.4 VOLTS)
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0055-4.jpg
TAPE IT ALL UP TO PREVENT WATER GETTING IN THERE
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0050-4.jpg
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0056-4.jpg
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0059-4.jpg
CUT SOME WIRE AND SOLDER TO THE OLD ORIGINAL BLOCK CONNECTOR AGAIN USE HEAT SHRINK AND THEN YOU HAVE A SPARE ,WORST CASE IF YOU HAVE A FAIL YOU CAN WIRE THE ORIGINAL INTO THE LOOM AGAIN
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF0061-3.jpg

Great write up/pics... Spen..thanks for that....

(It'll come in handy later for sure)

:)


.

After my Rec wiring failing twice I replaced the whole lot. Bought a kit from http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm
Beefier Rectifier and wiring. It came pre wired so I had minimal work to do. Much happier with the result. Has a built in circuit breaker too and you can also buy a Charge warning LED dash light.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...ps033e8faf.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48d72678.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...psa5adcbf3.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e161cf9.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0453bed.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d9817aa.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...psd904e88b.jpg

you have ened up with a block connector ,which is what i wanted to get rid of as this seems to be where the heat is generated and causes the problems .The problem is not with the REG itself but the situation and poor fitment of the connector I just read Stoic Blokes fix on here and hard wired mine into the loom .I also have the little charge warning light fitted :toothy10:

Reg/rec
 

Hi I have a tenere and fitted little spots under head light
All was fine until I did a trip to Europe and while going over the Ardennes
My bike just died . After some deliberation I found that battery had gone flat
It was definitely due to too much current being drawn and not enough going
Back in to battery. I know this because I had spots on for longer than I normally
Do, turned off spots jump started bike and all has been fine for couple of months now with spots only on for short stints.
Does anyone know how I can get it to stay charged with spots on all the time?
I.e different regulator or Something along those lines.
Thanks
Bob

I think you would be better trying to go for lights with a lower draw on the system ,increasing the voltage would cause more heat to build up in the wiring loom could fry a CDI or worse cause a fire in the loom.someone one here will know what the maximum you can draw from the charging system before you start to affect the battery.Def look at the lights before putting more juice through the loom .

Should have said ,have you checked what voltage your getting with the bike running should be over 14 . If it"s not could be a faulty REG/REC

A pair of 55W spots is going to test the charging ciruit to the limit on the XTZ.

Read this thread regarding maximum electrical loading for the Tenere...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=18294

Just read through the post on Gen output , explains it perfectly

Yeah still a connector (x2 now) but much beefier than the standard tiny ones. The problem I found with the originals is that they are just to loose which causes arcing and overheating which then melts the connector. I took them all out and gave them a squeeze the second time it died and it was golden after that. I just didn't want to take any more chances so upgraded it all.

everyone needs to check this ,def a weak point on the XTZ

mmmm....very interesting. on the link you provided which kit did you go for?

i think a voltage LED is a must on the Ten, i'll add that to my list of things to do.

SPEN: good job fella, great (useful) write up.

Cut out the block in an emergency?
 

Just thinking, if you've not changed the reg and get this problem, will cutting out the connector, joining the wires direct [solder etc.] and perhaps jump/bump start the bike - will this fix the problem on the road, or does this fault actually fry the regulator?

Also are people buying a fazor 600 reg new or 2nd hand?

Thanks

Jon

You can"t really cut out the block connector and still use the original REG as the connector plugs directly into the top of the REG/REC ,it has no wires coming out of it just pins ,I bought a second hand fazer one �14 and kept the original as spare

If you're desperate enough you could dig out the potting compound from the OEM reg/rec, desolder the built in connector and solder in a fly lead (repotting afterwards) and fit suitable connectors. The main benefit to this is to keep the extra redundancy that the OEM one has (rated at 35 amp when the alternator is rated at only 20.8 amp) whereas the Fazer reg/rec, SH650-12, would be at its limit (rated at 18 amp according to workshop manual).
Just do your sums before adding electrical accessories.......

I did the former and it lasted for ages until recently and now have a Fazer oreg/rec which hasn't fried yet despite occasional blasts of 165w (13.75 amp) of headlights.

Right - got it and now understand - doh! Thanks

I got the 'super mosfet kit'. Really easy to wire in. Had to grind down the fins on the new rec with a dremmel so the bracket would fit over but that was easy enough. Drilled some holes in it too for air flow as the rec does get hot. Really happy with it all.

The 2 times mine died it was always the wiring, never the rec. My second field fix was to take all the connectors out of the plug, squeeze them up, fit them all individually and covered it all in non conductive waterproof grease. It done a couple of thousand miles like that to get me home before I changed it all. That's all you need to do to prevent it happening anyway, just squeeze the connectors up.

just to clarify.........you have a new upreated wiring and a new REG...but is the new REG a different fit to the YAM one?

so....lets say....if your uprated REG packed in, and someone gave you a new YAM one...could you just plug it straight in? (or will it no longer fit as the upreated wires/connector is different)

The new one is completely different. It has 2 huge connectors on top so no I couldn't fit an original. I tried to get a new original connector when mine melted but was told they are not made anymore, difficult to get hold of. The one I have now is a common one so wouldn't have a problem if something went wrong with it.

Hi I think this http://www.rmstator.com/ProductInfo....F&cf=v1YY42952 is a replacement for the original connector if anyone is interested. I haven't ordered one yet, was just looking as mine started to go on one pin. Spotted it early and tightened/cleaned the pin sealed with grease. Its been fine for 18 months now. Although I may open it up again and see how it is fairing.

Cheers Scott

That looks like the kiddy. I probably would have got one of them if I had known about that site. Give the terminals a pinch, bit of grease, new connector and your're golden.

My regulator has just been changed by Yamaha by warranty when the default one melted... They also changed the loom. My bike is � 2008, and the change was done in september 2012.

Is this new regulator an updated and better one?? Do I have to worry about it to be overloaded in the future?

You're lucky you have a five year warranty in Sweden!

The original problem wasn't anything to do with overloading as such, just a crappy connector block. The replacement reg/rect itself is the same as the old one, but a different part number and an apparently (?) improved connector. I haven't heard of anyone having trouble after the original has been replaced by Yamaha. I wouldn't worry, but I would keep an eye on it.

If I buy from http://www.roadstercycle.com/ which is the rectifier I need or part number please for the 'super mosfet kit'

I got the Super Mosfet Kit FH020AA. The pre crimped and built one. Easy to fit and it's been on there about 55,000 miles without fault. I would ask if you could have the pos and neg cables a couple of inches longer as one of them was a bit of a stretch (can't remember which one)

Thanks UKBrian!
was there a need for the universal mounting backplate?

I certainly didn't buy one but I may have had to do a little filing or drilling, I can't quite remember, it was a long time ago. After looking at my photos in 'post 3' it was the negative cable that could have been a few inches longer. As it is it makes it difficult to get the air filter out.