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Replacing rear shock
My new Wilbers shock arrived last week and I had some time today to install it. I took some piccies while I was busy so I figured I would make use them in a basic howto on shock replacement.
So here's the plan. Replace this gritty old thing: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-59-54_v1.jpg with this piece of bling: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...6-02-14_v1.jpg |
First thing to do -at least in my case- is to remove the pannier racks. These are SW-Motech Quick-lock, so with 4 half turns on each side they were off. Easy peasy.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-18-22_v1.jpg Then the seat comes off. Then it's time for the Givi top case carrier. First the passenger grab rails need to go. Pop off the plastic caps and undo the hex bolts. 2 on each side. Then 2 more hex bolts for the givi carrier. Off they come. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-18-28_v1.jpg Finally the small original top case holder and the thin plastic plate held by it are removed. 2 nuts underneath the tail and it is all gone. Now we're left with this: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-16-22_v1.jpg |
Next up is the entire tail piece. It comes off in 1 piece, including rear light, indicators, license plate holder.
There, s 4 plugs that need to be disconnected and some tie-wraps to be cut. The plugs are located on the lhs near the fuses. Then 4 allen bolts at the top of the tail piece. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-18-36_v1.jpg Result: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-19-00_v1.jpg |
Continue with the plastic exhaust cover.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-19-08_v1.jpg 2 allen bolts at the top and 4 more underneath. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-23-14_v1.jpg Starting to look pretty naked: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-23-26_v1.jpg |
We're finally ready o remove the exhaust itself.
Loosen the bolt that connects the exhaust to the Y-piece. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-28-42_v1.jpg 2 more allen bolts between the exhaust and the tail sub frame, then wriggle the exhaust off. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-37-58_v1.jpg Then remove the plastic cover on the left hand side (2 allen bolts), underneath the airbox. Also remove the heat shield covering the Y-piece. You'll fist have to take out the bolts of the lower front fairing plastic that attach it to the heat shield. No need to take it off entirely, it bends away far enough to get the heat shield off. The shield itself is still fixed with 2 more allen bolts. Get these out and you have free access to the Y-piece. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-37-42_v1.jpg http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-28-00_v1.jpg |
Time to take out the Y-piece. 2 Hex bolts to loosen to disconnect the Y-piece from the header pipes. 1 bolt underneath the air box.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-41-28_v1.jpg http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-41-36_v1.jpg And finally here's why we are doing all this: unrestricted access to the top of the rear shock. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-41-42_v1.jpg |
To make access easier it is best to also remove the rear wheel at this point. Also get the mud flap out of the way. Don't use a paddock stand to jack up the bike, use a centre stand if you have it, otherwise use an abba stand or put a strong box underneath the engine.
Loosen the top bolt and nut. The nut can be a bit tricky to get a good hold of. As you can see in the picture below the L-part on the frame that holds the bolt has very little clearance to get a wrench nicely around the nut. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-57-40_v1.jpg But with some care it will come off. Then do the same at the bottom of the shock. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-54-54_v1.jpg And out comes the original shock. http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...5-59-54_v1.jpg |
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Once the shock is installed all that is left is to mount the compression reservoir and the hydraulic pre-load adjuster.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...6-56-40_v1.jpg mud flap back in place: http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...7-36-54_v1.jpg And the rest of the installation process is the reverse of the removal. |
Whoa, great write up! Great pictures, even I could understand what was going on!
Have you gone for a ride yet? How about putting a link to the new shock for good measure? :) |
I haven't been out for a spin yet (first had to tackle the little issue I had with the brake pad pin). But it is the same shock I had on my previous Ten. So I am pretty sure the results will be satisfactory.
Only difference is the hydraulic pre-load adjuster. Since I ride with different loads (luggage, pillion, ...) regularly the manual wrench adjusting on the previous one was quite painful and a PITA. The shock is a Wilbers 641 with the additional hi/low speed compression dampening and the hydraulic per-load adjusters. |
Hi Duibhek, great write up, very concise
I see that hein genrickh are doing the wilbers with 5 year warranty, pretty good. My unit was 7 months out of warranty and the company is looking after it, as it was an unusual failure, so mine should be back in a week or two |
Thank , yes removing silencer on 2009 z tenere sizing up the system.I have a spare can in the garage nice and short .:024: thanks for the pics.
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Cheers for this. Should be a sticky for a "how to remove rear end", for us thick people:036:
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+1 for a sticky
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD |
Well written and great pics, well done!!
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2011 abs
Hi there!
Do you guys know what rear shock would fit the ABS-version? Will the one you described above fit? Thanks! /Magnus, Sweden |
:coolsmiley:
Got mine couple days ago, i hope next week for installation. https://i.ibb.co/jWK3Wvx/IMG-20181211-120121.jpg |
would anyone know of a shock of another bike that could be interchangeable with our xtz?
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As far as i searched, no other shock can fit to our bike..
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2 Attachment(s)
Nice resurrection of an old thread. Some great pictures.
When I changed my rear shock I had the airbox out too. I know it's a complete pain because you have to uncouple the wiring loom's relays and ecu and work with the undertray and throttle body but it allowed me to inspect the upper frame shock mounting area as there have been reports of fractures and weld breaks in this area. It became a bit of a compulsive-behaviour-disorder thing for me because; since the lower suspension linkages became part of the process, I decided to pull out the linkages......and swinging arm for checking and greasing. For me, it would be a complete folly to attempt to improve suspension but ignore the condition of all the moving parts that my new shock is influenced by. Also, I found the 'new' top bolt that came with the shock was too short to pass through the nylock nut. |
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