hi, the problem is rarely the internal workings of the regulator, the weakness is at the connections. imho the terminals are just not beefy enough

not only when the reg is charging the earth plays as much a role as the positive, but when the battery is full the overspill of voltage [over simplification] has to be dumped, guess where, yep the earth [black wire] that's where they mainly fail, as far as i know no one has had a positive[red] fail.

if your connector is good, sure use the new tenere reg. I have no faith so would and did modify. your call! in fact my old reg is currently on a world tour as a spare.

stoic

Electrical probiems xt660z
 

Just read this and what said about yellow light come on and blke stoping,Sounds like Your Rec/reg or the wireing on connecter,
This what happend to me last june and it Burt my wireing out,Hope its not as bad as mine Mate? And try get this replaced thou yamaha warr ect.
Good Luck.

I had the the bad connection issue with the reg last summer. I sprayd the connector with WD40, dislodged a tiny piece of plastic that I found inside the connector and put it back in place. Had no problems until this week.

The LED that I have installed on the dash luckily shows immeadiately when the battery is not being charged while the bike is running so I no longer get left on the roadside. I highly recommend installing one for peace of mind.

Wigling the connector plug a bit solves the problem . I just put the bike on idle and wigle the connector until the battery charge light turns green and off I go! However, I'm having the whole wiring loom replaced in few weeks. Under warranty I might add as I talked to a local shop last summer about the issue and they promised to fix it if it reappears. The bike (09) had about 4000 km on it when I bought it.

On my bike the problem is not moisture, nothing is corroded etc. and the inside is dry as a bone. It just seems that the plug is not pushed in enough and kind off shakes loose.

I think a zip tie that pushes the connector and rectifier together might do the trick for me, but as the loom will be replaced I�m not going to bother.

Hi, I posted on the abr forum the details of my issues, http://www.adventurebikerider.com/fo...n-.html#444160

I have cleaned up the connector and made sure it connects as well as it can.
I have fitted a lead voltmeter the 5mm version of this http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkri...ge-monitor.php
It works great, when I am riding I see mostly green but every 5 mins or so, it goes red (no charging) but only for around 30 seconds then back to green. So for sure there is still an intermittent fault but it does not seem to be a connection.
As I have just fitted this voltmeter , I may had this problem for a while but would never have noticed .
There is no pattern as to when it happens , sometimes as soon as I set off , sometimes once a minute ..
Any electrical boffins out there have any idea of what it may be?

Intermittent problems are always a nightmare to trace. It could be a number of things...

• Battery terminals loose - check.
• The reg/rec connector still isn't good - get rid and hard wire a FZS600 reg/rec unit in it's place.
• Duff reg/rec unit - substitute with a known good one.
• Poor/iffy connection from reg/rec connector to the alternator (3x white wires) - test continuity. *This is not the the rec/rec connector it's another little known one that exists in the charging system.
• Poor alternator field coil earthing - test continuity.
• Dodgy field coils - test continuity/resistance.
• Faulty LED voltmeter and/or connections - compare against a multimeter. I had an early (pre-waterproofed) Gammatronix device (which yours is a copy of) and it used to go read and give funny readings when it got wet/damp.

*To test the alternator field coils you need to find the 3-pin connector that joins the alternator to the reg/rec unit. It is located just behind the rear brake reservoir under a rubber boot (bundled with the crank position sensor, neutral light and sidestand switch connectors). It's the only 3-pin connector and has three white wires. Once you've opened the connector, test the resistance between each combination of pairs of white wires on the alternator side of the connector. There should be hardly any resistance at all (0.224-0.336 ohms) and they all should be the same value.

Whilst you've got this plug off you can also test the continuity between this 3-pin connector and the reg/rec connector. Just check there is zero resistance between each of the three white wires between the 3-pin connector by the brake reservoir and there corresponding pins in the reg/rec connector.

+1 for the above - it usually works just fine imo.

However, I've discovered the hard way that alternator testing is sometimes a can of worms. Not long ago, I replaced my WR250R alternator after finding it was u/s by dynamic testing for charge ie when the engine was running.

This is done exactly the same way as a static test. The stator checked out fine statically, which is not rare, apparently. Upon removal, the unit was burnt black in places.