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I guess that your dealer changed the oil, that may cause your clutch slipping.

I have seen this before & experienced it once in heavy traffic myself.

When riding in traffic bumper to bumper moving step by step clutch in & out slipping the clutch in first gear at walking pace, the clutch whole pack expands under extreme heating conditions, this type of ridding builds up heat very quickly in the clutch pack, the heat build up is from the clutch pack it's self not the motor & is common in dry sump lubrication systems.

So we have a over heating expanding clutch pack in these riding conditions, the results are it reduces the free play in the cable to clutch leaver as it expands to the extent of there being no free play in the clutch pack, if you continue to ride in these conditions it will slip further due to no free play & will burn out the clutch plates & destroy them.

If you ever feel these slipping conditions pull over & let the bike cool down & you will save your clutch, keep riding & you will be up for a new clutch pack + oil & filter change.

I can normally tell if there has been excessive clutch slip by smelling the engine oil. My advice is get it checked out, even if they just change the engine oil to be on the safe side.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hunday (Post 160463)

Just after my 30 000 km service,I noted that when in 3rd gear and accelerating hard , the clutch slipps slightly.
I called the dealer to see if there was any Technical reports from the factory in that regard, the answer was no,your clutch must be going.

Sorry , I didnt accept that , so I removed the side cover and carefully removed all the friction and stator plates,
I measured all the friction plates in accordance with the manual( There are 3 different types of friction plates that make up the clutch , just by the way)

All were still in spec.

Right now for the clutch springs.
55.2 mm to 52 mm.

Well they range between 54 to 54,4 mm.
So I have added 1mm shim washers on the top of the springs , just under the attachment screws.
Beware of putting them at the bottom under the springs .
The shims I first used , had a slightly smaller center ID and the got stuck on the aluminum attachment posts.
Anyway , all assembled the cluch feels much better than before.
Doing a 500km ride in the mountains tomorrow , so we shall see

Well , we did the 450 km trip through the mountains today(dirt).
And the clutch worked like a dream.

So , I want a new clutch kit from the agents .The bike is still under guarantee for another year.
The clutch springs cant loose 1,3mm or so of length in 30 000km ?
And although the plates aren't worn beyond there limits , they have worn more than they should have.
Had the springs been of better quality or the correct length ?

Kev - I changed the oil/filter shortly after this and the filter was furred up with bits of, err, clutch. So I think the clutch was damaged by the experience (I didn't stop riding!), but it did just about survive.

Since then I have done another 10,000km+ and although I've not quite experienced traffic comparable with Istanbul, I've not had any issue riding through cities when the ambient temp has been above 45C (mid east). I did put 15-50 oil in though, I dunno if this helped (compared with 10-40 before).

The electrics, on the other hand, are falling apart!

Clutch Slipping , No more

So the 1mm shims did the trick, the clutch slipping is sorted,no more slippage.
On emailing my findings to the agents , there reply was that they are`nt happy to do the claim , as I removed the clutch myself.

However , I had emailed them first and asked if there had been any special technical instructions with regards the clutch , the answer was no,you need to buy a new clutch.

So now we wait and see what they decide !!!

Hi, just a sanity check on my thinking , under hard load at around 4,500 RPM for example when overtaking I can feel and hear my clutch slip ( or it�s spinning up the rear wheel ha ha ..) At a standstill it does not seem to slip , it will stall the bike . I am guessing that after 50K miles with some heavy clutch abuse along the way its time for new plates and springs. The oil in the bike is the recommended weight and level ..

There does seem to be enough free play in the cable.

Any thoughts ? and when you change friction plates do you normally also change the springs ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottnet (Post 207787)

It isn't unheard of for a little clutch slip to appear under full load at this sort of mileage. 4500-5500rpm is where a stock XT makes most of it's torque, so that'll be when clutch slip will be noticed if present.

Generally, replacing the springs is not necessary, unless they are weak or out of spec. Replacing the friction plates is a relatively straight forward and cheap job to do.