NGK Iridium plug
 

Would one of you kind chaps let me know the reference number for the NGK iridium spark plug for the Tenere please.

BTW is it worth the replacement?

I have on order the DNA stage 1, 2 and 3. I have yet to find out if it is worth also purchasing a 'power commander'. I can't see why the original CPU can't be updated via PC?

Sorry to keep asking these questions but how else does one learn?

Very best wishes to one and all,

Ryland

Hi Ryland,

I honestly believe that the Tenere runs fine without specials spark plugs or additionnal tuning.

it takes some knowledge to start playing with advanced engine setup.

But as you seem interested

http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/motorbikes_scooters.php

http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/mc_se...ere&engine=660

http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/mc_extra.php?id=2594

iridium: CR7EIX

Hi, Ryland,

I have a 2007 XTX, but as you know, the same engine.

I use an NGK Iridium spark.

So, the normal spark is NGK CR 7 E.

If you want use an Iridium spark (better, according to me), the code is :

for NGK : CR 7 EIX

for DENSO : IU 22

Ciao. Gianni.



http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/x...i1951/NGK4.jpg

G'day Ryland

I think the iridium spark plugs are total BS. I have used them in my WR and all they seem to do better is "fowl easyier" but yet you pay more money for them, so i went back to normal ones and happier for it.

If you sat there and said "i can feel the difference" then you would be fooling yourself. In a bike like the tenere where the eingine is not highly strung, i can't see the need for them at all.

Just keep asking yourself this question when buying motocycle stuff.... "is this a marketing ploy"

cheers
Reg.

I agree on the spark plug comments - mine works and I have a spare just in case it doesn't.

The ECU question is probably one for Kev, but I do not think it's possible to connect to the standard ECU - let alone re-program it..

The PC enables the user to create custom maps, so can be fine tuned to any bike. If you're going for the full air box mods, then to get the best from the engine you'll need a free breathing pipe (I have the X Racing single can) and at least the Kev fuel mod (I've got this too). Kev is working on the 02 eliminator, but even with the 02 sensor in place and connected Kev assures me the fuel mod is working fine. I've not done enough miles yet to really comment, but I can say that compared to the standard set up my K&N/Snorkel removed/X Racing/Kev's fuel mod spins up better and is much crisper - sounds better too!!!

Without going into the engine and making changes, I'd suggest the Scottoiler too. You can lose power through an unlubricated chain.

I use an Iridium plug in the TTR, it can be a pig to start at times and with the Iridium plug it certainly fires up eaiser. But there is no noticable difference to a standard one. Given that there is no problem with the 660 motor firing up, I'd keep my money for other things.

Tripletom did some research to find a programable ECU, and I think (form failing memory) it was something like �2500. The stock Yamaha one isn't programable easily, although anything with software is vulnerable to being cracked, the costs would be silly and this could easily raise a bug in another area.

For the <�300 for a PowerCommander, combined with the DNS upgrades it offers very good value for money. You could spend �500 on cans with less improvement.

There is the Kev-Fuel-Mod that has some good feedback and very cheap. Basically this fools the bike into thinking it's colder than it is and adding a bit more fuel (with the DNS filters it runs too lean).

I have the DNS Stage 2 and PC-V with the map supplied by Simon - it works very well indeed and I'm very happy with the return on my investment (and if I ever get a newer Z, I can move it to the new bike!)

and at the end of the day we're still talking about a 660cc 48BHP single cylinder "off road" motorcycle.

I stuck an iridium plug in my Ten as I found one for close to the cost of a non iridium plug, and I like to try things out.
You cannot program the OE ECU (big shame, as Tuneboy is a marvellous bit of kit and did wonders for my old Caponord) so you are stuck with using a Power Commander to get the most from the injection.

This is worth a read for you guys over there. I don't want to put a spin on Kev's mod but for those that don't want to risk doing fuel mods while the bike is still under warranty, refer below for something your dealer should be happy to do for you..... for nicks!

This is from our local "trailzone" magazine.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...lzonepiece.jpg

A fello tenere owner here in OZ just had his first service and quized the yammy dealer about the above adjustment. So he asked how much it costs for them to do and the dealer said "don't be silly mate, pull your seat off and I'll do it now.. it only takes 2 secs". So he did, and he adjusted it then and there... The dealer says the "safe" level for hot starts is +15 on the factory setting, which on his bike was 21 (whatever that means)....

Thank you all for the kind and informative replies. If we only spoke the same language it would be great! lol. By that I mean the jargon of mechanics.

It appears the more I ask the more I know I don't know and the LESS I understand.

May I mention I have not owned, nor even ridden, a bike in around 35 years. In that time the advancements in technology has left me way behind, to that end you guys are speaking another language to me. Lol

What is a "Scottoiler"?

What is a Kev-fuel-mod?

Now I am worried that I have bought the stage 1, 2 and 3 DNA and without this 'power commander' the bike will not function properly? I thought all I had to do was change the old filters for the new ones, that I could manage, now I understand the bike will run too 'lean' and that is not good for the engine, plus a waste of money on the DNA set up. It is a shame I didn't realise I had to spend even more money for the DNA convertion to be of value. Now, this makes me ask if I am able to find a 'power commander' what else will be needed. See my point this could become an ever ending circle of expenditure with no return or worse a damaged bike?

I must repeat, what I know about bike mechanics can be writen on the back of a postage stamp so you guys need to 'spell' things out in an ABC manner that I can understand.

So, to re-cap. I have on order, should arrive today, the DNA stage 1 to 3.

Do I NEED a power commmander? If I just fit the DNA set up will this damage the bike?

What is a "Scottoiler", do I need one and if I do where would I get one? Same question for the "Kev-fuel-mod"

In short HEEEEEEEEEELP.

I am aware I am a pain in the rear but do please try and understand I just don't yet speak the new langauage, it will take time to fit in again. I am trying! lol

One thing for sure, you guys and galls are just a great buch of members and I am looking forward to meeting you in the near future. Thank you all.

Kindest regards,

Ryland
Resident forum mechanic illiterate.

The answer to this is basically "I wouldn't risk it." From what I've read on here it's a pretty big difference in air flow with the filter kit.

The good news is, it's shouldn't be a continuing cycle of money after that unless you want it to be. Once you have the filters and the Power Commander, your only further expense is getting someone to put it on a dyno and set up the latter to suit the former.

If you change something else (exhaust, further tuning) then you've already got the Power commander, so you just need, again, to get it set up to suit the new configuration.


It's a device to automatically lubricate your chain when the bike is running. Stick it into google. Do you need one? Depends how much you like manually cleaning and oiling your chain! I don't, so my bike will be getting one.

Kev is a member on here, who has developed a way of making a small adjustment to the fuelling without a power commander. You'll have to ask him or search on here for more details, because I haven't been here long and have no idea of the details.

I suspect you don't really need to know, because you will need the full control offered by a power commander in order to get your bike set up correctly for the filter kit.

http://www.scottoiler.com/about.asp

See the Modifications list as published by Kev for his fuel mod or go via the search function.

You don't need it - the bike will still go, but you'll get much more if you go for the fuel mod and untimately the PC.

Speak to Simon @ PowerTech, http://www.powertech.uk.com/ he already has some maps so this is not an expense you need to go through. He is also the cheapest by far for PowerCommander boxes - he shiped mine already setup with the right map on installed

(a map is the information table that needs to be completed that tells the bike how much fuel to use etc, in reality it's just a lot of numbers in a table. You need a different map depending on how your bike is modified, such as air filters, exhausts )

Kev's Fuel mod is a little bit of trickery that was developed by Kev to give a low cost solution to the fueling issues caused by better air filters. It cost a few �� to buy rather than the ��� for the PC-V (PowerCommander - V, or 5).

If you use the 'search' button above and put in "kev mod" (including the quotes) you'll get some threads that discuss it, the cost and how easy it is to do.

Now we are cooking.

Thanks to those who kindly replied. My DNA filters just arrived and I have spoken with Simon-C and ordered the power commander.

I shall forget this Iridium spark plug idea.

I shall now search for the scottoiler, seems a very good idea. How much do they cost?

Simon knows I have standard cans and will install the full DNA kit. Do I take it then that the bike will not need further attention? Will Simon do the mapping on the power commander before shipping?

Will I, with no mechanical experience for over 30 years, be able to fit the filters and the power commander? 10,000$ question eh? Lol

Thank you all again for the great support.

Ryland

About �70-80 in the UK last time I looked. About the same as a set of chain and sprockets - and unless you are really attentive about cleaning and lubing your chain manually then it will easily double the life of a chain in my experience.

Really need to get one for my Ten', I feel bad every time I look at the chain!

Hi, Thanks for the reply.

This could be a 'how long is a piece of string question' but.........In general, how long does a chain and sprocket set last? When I owned motorbikes I never had to change either?

Best wishes,

Ryland

In harsh conditions, such as sand, mud or just not oiling it, then it could last you as little as a couple of thousand miles....

I have a scottoiler, it has covered 17,000 miles and is still only on the third adjustment mark - I estimate at least 20,000 on this chain & sprocket set and I'll change it, when they start to go, they tend to go quite quickly.

I had one go on a VFR at 9000 miles, and my old Kwacker ZZR6 would last 12,000.

It's all down to how well you look after it (and that includes how you ride too)

A good answer would be "how often do you maintain your chain?" I'm not perfect, but I do keep it oiled, and have a small chain oiler fitted. I also ride the bike through all the salt, snow and ****e in the winter, and pull crap wheelies. I got 11,000 miles from my OE C&S. The rear sprocket was ok, but the front was hooked and dead. The chain was worn enough for me to be able to curve it into a half moon, the wrong way...

Ryland... Have a look at 'LOOBMAN' on google, I fitted one and am impressed.. Its mega low tech so nothing to go wrong. Costs about �18... Loads less than a scottoiler and easy as to fit.

Thanks, will do just that.

Ryland

or the Tutoro
http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?...ghlight=tutoro

Ryland, something comes to mind, you've apparently not ridden a motorcycle in 35 years and you already want to optimize a motorcycle working very well from stock.

Most of the XTZ owner here have not fitted any performance parts to their XTZ.

You admit yourself (as I do) that you have some gaps in knowledge regarding motorycle mechanics

I'm sorry if I seem intrusive, that is not my point, but i would concentrate on basics (suspension/fork setup, chain maintenance, ...) before trying to get the max out of the XTZ (which will not make a massive difference in the end)

Don't fall for the marketing tricks :)

Ride safe.