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-   -   DIY snorkel removal, AKA Poor Man stage 1 filter cover. ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=10829)

Molgan 18-03-10 09:49

This is the kind of mods I like. :thumbsup:

Gas_Up_Lets_Go 18-03-10 09:51

Has anyone priced up a new snorkel ?

I'm a 'reversable mod' kinda bloke, so I opted for the DNA option. It might be that purchasing a new snorkel and cutting it might be a more viable option if the price is right (come on down...... :icon_shaking:)



:017:

Avo 24-03-10 09:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avo (Post 123701)
oooh I like that, I even have a bog seal in my attic...that's gonna be a cheap mod. Will I need to fiddle with CO settings or anything else do you know?

I'm tempted, will I need to do other fuel mods settings? CO or TPS?

jiauka 24-03-10 09:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avo (Post 124380)
I'm tempted, will I need to do other fuel mods settings? CO or TPS?


I did adjust the CO and TPS, but a friend of mine didn't, both bikes run fine with OEM filter. If you use a DNA or K&N filter you need either the wonderful inespensive Kev mod or a powercommander, and you don't need to adjust CO or TPS

have fun,

j.

Chenko 23-12-13 15:51

Hi! I removed the snorkel too two days ago (sound has changed a lot for the better!).
I found it sufficient to remove the snorkel part from the ring and screw back in place the ring alone without an additional gasket, other folks here seem to have done the same as I did: do you find it important to add a rubber gasket as you did? If so, why? Biker seems to run fine without btw.

Pleiades 23-12-13 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chenko (Post 195305)
I found it sufficient to remove the snorkel part from the ring and screw back in place the ring alone without an additional gasket, other folks here seem to have done the same as I did: [B]do you find it important to add a rubber gasket as you did? If so, why?

You only need to add an additional gasket if you completely remove the snorkel. If you cut it down (as I assume you have done) there is no need for another gasket as you will have retained the bottom part of the snorkel which forms the seal.

Chenko 23-12-13 22:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 195309)
You only need to add an additional gasket if you completely remove the snorkel. If you cut it down (as I assume you have done) there is no need for another gasket as you will have retained the bottom part of the snorkel which forms the seal.

No, I haven't cut anything. I just separated the ring from the snorkel.

Here is the way I separated them:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswonpwkks.jpg

Here you can see the ring on the right, separated from the snorkel:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psvcdfppyt.jpg

And here the ring mounted back in:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgi4bppao.jpg

Do I need a gasket of sort? And why? What shall it seal?

Pleiades 24-12-13 11:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chenko (Post 195310)
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgi4bppao.jpg

Do I need a gasket of sort? And why?

As you have it, the top of the air filter (the foam sealing ring) is exposed and not compressed against the airbox top ring. I should imagine the filter wobbles and can be moved about a bit? It won't be forming an airtight seal between the filtered and non-filtered sides of the airbox; you are likely to be getting unfiltered air into the engine around the circumference of top edge of the filter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chenko (Post 195310)
What shall it seal?

The top ring of the filter must be sealed tight where it meets the opening of the airbox.

Your choices are: (1) Make a gasket/seal out of a rubber toilet pan connector, or use a coil of petrol pipe or vacuum hose. (2) Cut the snorkel off at its base separating the circular sealing part, then refit the lower part in the airbox top ring. (3) Buy a DNA Stage 2 top cover.

A wobbly and poorly sealed filter will be bad for engine wear in the long term, and it may well cause fluctuating pressure changes in the airbox, which could in turn cause erratic weak running and give the ECU a hard time working out what's going on.

Kev 24-12-13 12:16

+ it will affect the A/F ratio with the loose filter causing the motor to run leaner than it should.

Chenko 24-12-13 19:30

Great info folks, I thank you all! :icon_thumright:
That makes very much sense to me.

Being the MacGuyver junkie I am, I opted for a diy solution: I always enjoy a trip to the hardware store! :icon_mrgreen:

Here's what I bought, for less than 3 euros total:
- a carboy gasket
- a pipe connection gasket
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7d77db07.jpg

The carboy gasket fits the original snorkel well indeed:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps52114721.jpg

Also the pipe connection gasket, which has a flared shape, fits the carboy one snugly as well:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse4fb06fd.jpg

So here we are with a very neat looking gasket to fit in the airbox:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps26f7c24b.jpg

If you like to, it is possible to glue the pieces together with a suitable rubber glue too, but I shall say that is not needed at all as the air filter holds the flared piece of the black gasket perfectly, while the carboy gasket part is held in place by the original outer ring of the Ten:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pseb3dcbcd.jpg

So let's place the gasket gizmo where it shall sit...
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4e4b3123.jpg

...And screw back the outer ring in:
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps07065559.jpg

Easy Peasy! And damn cheap Stage2 filter I must say! :icon_thumright:


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