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-   -   Bar Raisers ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=10699)

BigB 11-06-09 01:55

Bar Raisers
 
Fitted a pair of 3" bar raisers http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo.a...-Round-Raisers
fitting was real easy took about 20mins, no clearance problems with cables and wires.
only an inch taller but makes a real difference.

a few tips
undo the nuts on the under side of the yokes before taking the clamps off,
bolts are used insteed of nuts to hold the raisers on, and need to be M10x75.
use lock tight on all bolts.


http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_PICT0139.jpg


http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_PICT0144.jpg

Lairyboy 11-06-09 11:40

BigB,
those risers look good mate, had a look at the link and for 30 odd quid I might have to get some. You mentioned fixing with bolts in your post, do they come with the risers or did you have to buy them separately?
cheers
Skippy

BigB 11-06-09 20:42

Lairyboy
they don't come with bolts,
the guy in M&P gave me a couple of bolts but they were too short
used some hex bolts i had in the shed
will get some stainless steel socket bolts asap

M&P sell bolts so you can pick them up at the same time (M10x75)

JMo 11-06-09 21:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigB (Post 97557)
Lairyboy
they don't come with bolts,
the guy in M&P gave me a couple of bolts but they were too short
used some hex bolts i had in the shed
will get some stainless steel socket bolts asap

M&P sell bolts so you can pick them up at the same time (M10x75)

Hi BigB - I might be wrong, but I'm not sure stainless bolts are ideal for 'safety items' such as the bar risers (even in chunky M10 size) - you're probably better with some zinc plated hi-tensile 8.8 heat treated whojimma whatevers, you know what I mean... as they are stronger (against sheer) than stainless?

xxx

mudmover 11-06-09 21:33

Damping
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigB (Post 97482)
Fitted a pair of 3" bar raisers http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo.a...-Round-Raisers
fitting was real easy took about 20mins, no clearance problems with cables and wires.
only an inch taller but makes a real difference.

a few tips
undo the nuts on the under side of the yokes before taking the clamps off,
bolts are used insteed of nuts to hold the raisers on, and need to be M10x75.
use lock tight on all bolts.


http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_PICT0139.jpg


http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_PICT0144.jpg

what about the rubber dampermount which is used with standard set up...As this would be redundant is there any extra vibration?

What thread are the M10 75mm bolts as theres some on the fleabay?

Ive just priced a new yam replacement set ( mine are twisted after an off) and they are �79 so this alternative sounds great to me....As I need risers too...

JMo 11-06-09 22:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudmover (Post 97561)
what about the rubber dampermount which is used with standard set up...As this would be redundant is there any extra vibration?

What thread are the M10 75mm bolts as theres some on the fleabay?

Ive just priced a new yam replacement set ( mine are twisted after an off) and they are �79 so this alternative sounds great to me....As I need risers too...

Hi MM - I'd be surprised if they are actually twisted?

Have you tried loosening off the nuts that hold the risers to the top clamp and waggling the bars straight again? The rubber mountings do allow a little movement, and because they are nipped up tight, the bars & mount can twist in the rubbers and stay in that position - loosening them off and then re-tightening usually sorts it out...

xxx

mudmover 11-06-09 23:26

Bang on
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JMo (Post 97574)
Hi MM - I'd be surprised if they are actually twisted?

Have you tried loosening off the nuts that hold the risers to the top clamp and waggling the bars straight again? The rubber mountings do allow a little movement, and because they are nipped up tight, the bars & mount can twist in the rubbers and stay in that position - loosening them off and then re-tightening usually sorts it out...

xxx

Wow Jmo I can see why everybody listens...I did exactly as you said and hey presto the bars simply corrected themselves...so you were right..the rubbers
had moved...I was quite suprised just how "untight" those two nuts were which was actually just as well as its not easy to get a ratchet or spanner in there....

Well its a job done for now.....Purchased RC highs/ acerbis rally pro's and spent hours on bike - these will have to wait.....Can't wait to get back out on her again...

Might have to try my new HID kit now...

Many many thx
Max

BigB 14-06-09 18:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMo (Post 97560)
Hi BigB - I might be wrong, but I'm not sure stainless bolts are ideal for 'safety items' such as the bar risers (even in chunky M10 size) - you're probably better with some zinc plated hi-tensile 8.8 heat treated whojimma whatevers, you know what I mean... as they are stronger (against sheer) than stainless?

xxx

jmo
i'm using high tensile at the moment, i'll prob leave them on for now.
just too be on the safe side.

Jaume 18-06-09 23:16

Handlebar Raisers
 
Hi BibB,

I am interested in such a device.:sunny: I need to raise my handlebars also and I like the original BARS...so the best solution is to change handlebars raisers, instead of setting a piece of metal in between handlebar raisers and original bar.

I would ask you please to specify again the maximum height possible for the TEN without having problems with cables, since they are avaiable in 3 different: 50mm (2 inch), 75mm (3 inch) and 100mm (4 inch).

Please confirm also the model: Flat sided or round sided.

Thanks.:FlowersAndHeart_SL3

Jaume from Barcelona.

BigB 20-06-09 14:28

Jaume
sorry the reply is a bit late.
i used 3" (75mm) round sided bar raisers with no problems with clearance of cables etc.
flat sided raisers can be used as well with no problems.


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